CUTTING HEADLIGHT BUCKETS FOR IMPORVED TURNING RADIUS

1) I like to cut a little as possible out of the headight buckets. Start small and trim the opening as needed, until you can turn the tire past the headlight buckets. 

TYPE 1 STEERING BOX REBUILD

Here is an early (pre 60) type 1 steering box. This one is in great shape....so it did not require any new parts. And to be honest, I'm not sure where you could get replacment parts. This one is getting the detail treatment, it has already been disassembled, blasted, and painted. A little different than the later style...but pretty much the same thing.

Here is the exploded view...all in all, a pretty simple device. 

HOW TO LOWERING THE REAR ON A BUG

1) This is what you will be looking at with the car jacked up, wheels removed, shocks disconnected, and axles disconnected. To disconnect the axle from the spring plate first remove the e-brake cables from the e-brake handle, this will allow the axles to move back far enough so that the spring plate can be adjusted. After you have disconnected the e-brake remove the 3 large bolts holding the axle to the sping plate. 

BUILD DROPPED SPINDLES

If you want to lower your wagen serious, dropped spindles is a must. Because it get lower the car and the wheel geometry will be right (moves the wheels backwards). This will help your headlight buckets from wheel rubbing too and your tierods won’t get the crazy angels.
Tools needed is a hydraulic press, big hammer and patience. But it’s a pretty easy job to do!

 New dropped spindles for my linkpin car (1945-1965). The most VW shops sell these.

FLIP YOUR TIERODS

 

 

Flip your tierods

Depending on how much you will lower your Volkswagen, if you going for that slammed look then you have to flip your tierods. Why? Because on type 1 beetles the right tierod will hit the bottom of the fueltank (not good). On type 1 you only need the flip the right side.
On type 2 bus you have to flip both sides to get some clearence to the frame. Sometimes you will still need to notch the frame a little bit for some more space. Snap-on sells a reamer that will get this job done! Easy to buy online at www.snapon.com.

  Here is the Snap-On reamer kit.

poniendo a tiempo el motor

de forma estática

utilizamos un perico el cual se introduce en la polea

girando la polea hasta la marca TDC(punto muerto superior)

colocando 10º del lado derecho entre la unión del block

después vamos a desconectar el cable de la tapa del distribuidor que viene de la bobina el cual  esta conectado en el centro del distribuidor

aproximandolo a una parte metálica vamos a girar el distribuidor y va a saltar una chispa realizando esto con el switch abierto.

giraremos el distribuidor en sentido contrario a las manecillas del reloj y haciendo brincar la chispa

en la posición donde brinca la chispa se deja el distribuidor y se aprieta para que el motor quede a tiempo

carburacion...

 

carburacion de solex bocar para 1600cc


Utilizando 2 desarmadores planos de diferente grosor

se realiza con el motor encendido
despues de haber lavado el carburador
se coloca en su lugar nuevamente ya encendido el motor se mantene un poco acelerado para llegar a la temperatura normal del motor
se regulan la esprea de abajo la cual es para aire/combustible
y la superior la de aire unicamente
la de aire se regula a 1000rpm
la de mescla se ajusta hasta que empieze a fallar el motor desde ese punto se regresa hasta donde alcanza el maximo de revoluciones y dandole media vuelta mas.
en caso de no llegar a estabilizarlo en 900rpm
se gira el tornillo frontal del carburador el cual regula la posicion de la mariposa el cual al oprimirlo nos entrega mayor revoluciones y al extraerlo nos entrega menos