I should start by saying
that I'm pretty picky on my tin fits...and that I could easily spend
twice as much time making them perfect. We use the Empi aftermarket tins
on our engines. They fit great with a little adjustment shown below.
1) The first step is to
fit the piece of tin that goes behind the pulley. On our engines we
almost always have a full flowed oil pump and case. When fitting this
tin I like to hammer a small dent into the tin to provide clearance for
the full flow fittings. Additional dents may be needed around the oil
pump, depending on the style of oil pump and oil pump cover used. Be
sure to check your pulley/tin clearance....I like to use sand seal
pulleys with the provided pulley spacer to help space the pulley out
from the case/tin.
2) Next trim the cylinder
tin for your intake manifolds. These are trimmed for ported heads and
IDF manifolds. Its better to take a little more around the intake than
not enough. I would have trimmed the cylinder tin the same if I were
installing stock manifolds. I also like to cut the outer edge off. This
will give you a little more room to get the engine seal installed once
in the vehicle. Finally, Check fitment around your exhaust ports...I
like to install the exhaust and trim the cylinder tin so that it will
drop on with the exhaust in plalce.
3) We use the Empi 36
style doghouse fan shrouds. They have a nice round look, and come
without all the extra holes that a stock shroud would have. I tack weld
all of the fins inside the shroud to prevent any of them from coming
loose. In the past we've had engines where the fins come loose after a
few thousand miles and rattle inside the shroud...its a very annoying
sound, and even more annoying to remove the engine to fix it.
4) Now I fit the cylinder
tin to the fan shroud. Depending on the stroke, rod length, cylinders,
and cylinder shims, the fit of the shroud to the tin changes. This
engine is pretty close and minimal work is needed....I was able to use a
deadblow hammer and move the cylinder tin into the fan shroud. On
larger gaps, a pie-cut and welding may be required.
5) Once the cylinder tin
is in place, the rear tin can be trimmed. Depending on the year of your
car, you may need to trim less. As a general rule of thumb; any car that
originaly came with a 25 or 36 horse engine will need to be trimmed as
much as possible. While a 61+ car will need less trimming....You can
always fine tune this piece of tin while your installing the engine into
the car. This engine is going into a 59...so I'm going to trim it all
of the way.
6) The front tin is fairly
simple. Cut the sides off to match you cylinder tin, check the throttle
tube hole, and move it(they usually need to be). If your installing a
breather box, put some holes into the tin to allow the breather line to
pass through.
7)Check the doghouse fitment to the back of the shroud. This aftermarket piece is a little sloppy, and required some trimming.
8)If your installing a
breather box; now is a good time to figure out where/how your going to
mount it. These cheezy Empi breather boxes work great. You'll want to
mount the breather box as high as possible to promote good oil drainage.
I'll weld nuts(or bolts) to the fan shroud to mount the breather box.
Usually, I'll mount the box on the back side of the fan shroud where
it'll be out of the way, and out of sight...but this engine is going
into a truck, and there is a bed support in the way....so, I mounted it
on the front.
THATS IT! Rip it apart, prep, and paint it...DONE!
TEXT & PHOTOS BY Franz ON:
KUSTOM COACH WERKS
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