Old'67

This is a picture from new proyect in the garage... so we are looking for new parts to make the diference with another vw whom are rolling in the city :)

Nice day!!

KNOW YOUR OIL PUMP

Know your Oil Pump 
 

As our VWs get older it will eventually begin to lose oil pressure. And we may notice that our oil light comes on earlier near idle, and takes longer to go off as we accelerate.Some might think that this is the oil pump is going bad. This is rarely the case. As the engine wears, all of the oil clearances grow larger, and the oil flows through the bearings (etc.) with much less resistance, and the result is less oil pressure. Of course the ultimate or eventual solution is to rebuild the motor.
Nonetheless our engine may be running fine, and still has some life left in it. Yet some are annoyed by that flickering oil light, so they decide to go with a larger oil pump for the present. Here is where we need a little education on oil pumps. While they may look about the same, and will fit into the case, there are differences that matter.

HEATER CHANNEL REPLACEMENT

The heater channel is the foundation of the VW Beetle body.

It runs from the front chassis support...

...to the rear chassis support.

CLUTCH CABLE REPLACEMENT

The symptoms of a broken clutch cable are usually sudden and obvious. We push our clutch pedal to change gears, there is a popping feeling in the pedal and now we have about 5 inches of free play.

FAN BELT REPLACEMENT

Everyone who drives an air-cooled VW should know how to change their fan belt and should carry an extra in their car along with the tools to change it. The tools simply consist of a 13/16 or 21 mm wrench or socket (same as spark plug) and a medium screwdriver.If the fan belt/generator light ever comes on stop immediately to see if the belt has broken. Without the fan the motor will overheat in seconds and can be completely ruined in no time. To replace the belt put the notch in the back of the top pulley to the right of center and use the screwdriver to hold it still while you loosen the nut.

REAR GRASE SEAL REPLACEMENT

If you find that your Volkswagen is pulling to one side and not stopping very well you may have a rear grease seal leaking. This is usually pretty obvious if you look at the back of the rear brake drum. When the rear seal leaks it will usually ruin the rear brake shoes and get grease inside the brake drum. We have already shown you how to correct the brake problem and remove the rear drum in the Brake Maintenance tech article. So we will move right onto replacing the faulty seal.

 

 

FRONT WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT

"The squeaky wheel gets the grease." On your bug by the time the wheel starts to make a noise it is too late for grease. We are going to discuss front wheel bearing maintenance. About once a year it is good to pull the front drums and clean and pack the front wheel bearings. If you have neglected to do this you may hear about it. But it will be more than a squeak. A bad front wheel bearing can roar so loud in the car that some people have thought that the whole transmission had gone bad. By jacking up the front end of the car and spinning the wheels you can easily determine if you have a bad wheel bearing by the awful roar. To replace a front bearing or to clean and pack them the front drum has to come off. The wheel can remain bolted to it. On the older bugs the drum is held onto the spindle by a pair of 27mm nuts jammed together against a lock plate. From '66 on it was held on by a pinchnut that is tightened by an allen screw.