sábado, 13 de octubre de 2012

Seat restoration

This is the first picture about seats restoration in some days i will upload the completr process

domingo, 7 de octubre de 2012

T2 87'

These are mine...

sábado, 22 de septiembre de 2012


This is a picture from new proyect in the garage... so we are looking for new parts to make the diference with another vw whom are rolling in the city :)

Nice day!!

lunes, 7 de mayo de 2012


Know your Oil Pump 
As our VWs get older it will eventually begin to lose oil pressure. And we may notice that our oil light comes on earlier near idle, and takes longer to go off as we accelerate.Some might think that this is the oil pump is going bad. This is rarely the case. As the engine wears, all of the oil clearances grow larger, and the oil flows through the bearings (etc.) with much less resistance, and the result is less oil pressure. Of course the ultimate or eventual solution is to rebuild the motor.
Nonetheless our engine may be running fine, and still has some life left in it. Yet some are annoyed by that flickering oil light, so they decide to go with a larger oil pump for the present. Here is where we need a little education on oil pumps. While they may look about the same, and will fit into the case, there are differences that matter.


The heater channel is the foundation of the VW Beetle body.

It runs from the front chassis support...
...to the rear chassis support.


The symptoms of a broken clutch cable are usually sudden and obvious. We push our clutch pedal to change gears, there is a popping feeling in the pedal and now we have about 5 inches of free play.

miércoles, 18 de abril de 2012


Everyone who drives an air-cooled VW should know how to change their fan belt and should carry an extra in their car along with the tools to change it. The tools simply consist of a 13/16 or 21 mm wrench or socket (same as spark plug) and a medium screwdriver.If the fan belt/generator light ever comes on stop immediately to see if the belt has broken. Without the fan the motor will overheat in seconds and can be completely ruined in no time. To replace the belt put the notch in the back of the top pulley to the right of center and use the screwdriver to hold it still while you loosen the nut.


If you find that your Volkswagen is pulling to one side and not stopping very well you may have a rear grease seal leaking. This is usually pretty obvious if you look at the back of the rear brake drum. When the rear seal leaks it will usually ruin the rear brake shoes and get grease inside the brake drum. We have already shown you how to correct the brake problem and remove the rear drum in the Brake Maintenance tech article. So we will move right onto replacing the faulty seal.


"The squeaky wheel gets the grease." On your bug by the time the wheel starts to make a noise it is too late for grease. We are going to discuss front wheel bearing maintenance. About once a year it is good to pull the front drums and clean and pack the front wheel bearings. If you have neglected to do this you may hear about it. But it will be more than a squeak. A bad front wheel bearing can roar so loud in the car that some people have thought that the whole transmission had gone bad. By jacking up the front end of the car and spinning the wheels you can easily determine if you have a bad wheel bearing by the awful roar. To replace a front bearing or to clean and pack them the front drum has to come off. The wheel can remain bolted to it. On the older bugs the drum is held onto the spindle by a pair of 27mm nuts jammed together against a lock plate. From '66 on it was held on by a pinchnut that is tightened by an allen screw.

miércoles, 11 de abril de 2012


The air cooled Volkswagen is one of the last cars out there that still uses regular points and condenser in the ignition. Some see this as a disadvantage because they need to be replaced once or twice a year for best performance. The advantage is that it is easy and inexpensive. Another advantage that many of us vintage lovers like is that when we do have ignition trouble we can usually clean up the points with a small piece of sandpaper or a point file and make it home just fine. Not so with the new cars. When the ignition goes on them you better call a tow truck and prepare to dig into your wallet. The points in the distributor just act as an off and on switch to a flow of current in the coil. They are pushed open by the raised lobes on the shaft in the middle of the distributor as it goes around. .016 is the ideal gap. The condenser is attached to even out the current. The car would run without the condenser but not as well or as long. Normally the condensers are trouble free but they are inexpensive and it is common practice to replace them with the points. If they were to short or ground out the car would quit running. To replace the points remove the distributor cap by popping loose the clips. Examine the contacts inside for obvious excessive burning and look for cracks.


Changing the oil in your air cooled VW is one of the most important things you can do to make it last. Dirty, contaminated oil can ruin a motor in a short time. A well tuned engine with minimal wear can run safely 6000 between oil changes. Short trips, big temperature changes, or dusty conditions call for more frequency. Always use good quality oil and try to stick with the same brand if possible. I prefer to use a straight weight oil in stable weather conditions. Multi wt is good in climates that change drastically. 


When your rockers go from clickety click to clack clack it is time to pull that valve cover and take a look. Much of the time the problem is quite obvious.
One common problem is that an adjuster has come loose.

jueves, 5 de abril de 2012


In our last article we learned how easy it is to remove the body from the VW bug. With the body out of the way replacing the floor pans is pretty straight forward. But with just a little more effort they can be replaced with the body still in place. The first thing you need to do is remove the seats and floor carpet. 

domingo, 1 de abril de 2012


When we hear the term "Body off" restoration we think of a restoration job that has gone to the max. We also think $$$$. On most cars this is a project best left to the pros with restoration shops with lots of equipment. Fortunately for us VW enthusiast a beetle body can be removed in an afternoon with pretty basic equipment. The standard beetle body is bolted to the floor pan along each side with 9 13mm (head) bolts and two 17mm at the front.

viernes, 9 de marzo de 2012


This is a kit that we got from Auto-Loc with the Hidden Hinges. we bought the latches, instalation kit and a dead bolt. not sure that we'd ever need the dead bolt but its there just in case. 


Ok guys. this is more of a "How I did it " than "How to"

so here goes 

martes, 6 de marzo de 2012


"Cause they look cool, and are easy to install. The axle tube has to be free....removed from the transaxle."

 1) Flip the boot inside-out. 

domingo, 4 de marzo de 2012


I feel like this question gets asked about once a month. So, here is a how-to. It may not be the "right" way...but its my way, and it works.

sábado, 3 de marzo de 2012


Just 'cause I spent some time drawing this up for a question I couldn't answer without it. This shows a type 2 "flipped" spindle...but the shimming procedure is pretty much the same for any link pin suspension.

Put all of your link pin shims into one pile, and divide it into 4 equal piles for each link pin. You should have 7-10 shims for each link pin. This is a pre-shim setting. More times than not, this is close enough to be done with and drive on. If you want the be really picky, you can make sure the car is level side to side, and use a bubble level(or inclometer) on the face of the spindle to set the camber. 




I should start by saying that I'm pretty picky on my tin fits...and that I could easily spend twice as much time making them perfect. We use the Empi aftermarket tins on our engines. They fit great with a little adjustment shown below. 

jueves, 1 de marzo de 2012


"Here is a how-to, so that you can build your own...Because I'm done building these. "

jueves, 23 de febrero de 2012


1) I like to cut a little as possible out of the headight buckets. Start small and trim the opening as needed, until you can turn the tire past the headlight buckets. 


Here is an early (pre 60) type 1 steering box. This one is in great shape....so it did not require any new parts. And to be honest, I'm not sure where you could get replacment parts. This one is getting the detail treatment, it has already been disassembled, blasted, and painted. A little different than the later style...but pretty much the same thing.

Here is the exploded view...all in all, a pretty simple device. 

miércoles, 15 de febrero de 2012


1) This is what you will be looking at with the car jacked up, wheels removed, shocks disconnected, and axles disconnected. To disconnect the axle from the spring plate first remove the e-brake cables from the e-brake handle, this will allow the axles to move back far enough so that the spring plate can be adjusted. After you have disconnected the e-brake remove the 3 large bolts holding the axle to the sping plate. 


If you want to lower your wagen serious, dropped spindles is a must. Because it get lower the car and the wheel geometry will be right (moves the wheels backwards). This will help your headlight buckets from wheel rubbing too and your tierods won’t get the crazy angels.
Tools needed is a hydraulic press, big hammer and patience. But it’s a pretty easy job to do!
 New dropped spindles for my linkpin car (1945-1965). The most VW shops sell these.




Flip your tierods

Depending on how much you will lower your Volkswagen, if you going for that slammed look then you have to flip your tierods. Why? Because on type 1 beetles the right tierod will hit the bottom of the fueltank (not good). On type 1 you only need the flip the right side.
On type 2 bus you have to flip both sides to get some clearence to the frame. Sometimes you will still need to notch the frame a little bit for some more space. Snap-on sells a reamer that will get this job done! Easy to buy online at www.snapon.com.

  Here is the Snap-On reamer kit.

viernes, 3 de febrero de 2012

poniendo a tiempo el motor

de forma estática

utilizamos un perico el cual se introduce en la polea

girando la polea hasta la marca TDC(punto muerto superior)

colocando 10º del lado derecho entre la unión del block

después vamos a desconectar el cable de la tapa del distribuidor que viene de la bobina el cual  esta conectado en el centro del distribuidor

aproximandolo a una parte metálica vamos a girar el distribuidor y va a saltar una chispa realizando esto con el switch abierto.

giraremos el distribuidor en sentido contrario a las manecillas del reloj y haciendo brincar la chispa

en la posición donde brinca la chispa se deja el distribuidor y se aprieta para que el motor quede a tiempo



carburacion de solex bocar para 1600cc

Utilizando 2 desarmadores planos de diferente grosor

se realiza con el motor encendido
despues de haber lavado el carburador
se coloca en su lugar nuevamente ya encendido el motor se mantene un poco acelerado para llegar a la temperatura normal del motor
se regulan la esprea de abajo la cual es para aire/combustible
y la superior la de aire unicamente
la de aire se regula a 1000rpm
la de mescla se ajusta hasta que empieze a fallar el motor desde ese punto se regresa hasta donde alcanza el maximo de revoluciones y dandole media vuelta mas.
en caso de no llegar a estabilizarlo en 900rpm
se gira el tornillo frontal del carburador el cual regula la posicion de la mariposa el cual al oprimirlo nos entrega mayor revoluciones y al extraerlo nos entrega menos

lunes, 9 de enero de 2012

limpieza del carburador

el presente video es un pequeño tutorial de los pasos a seguir para darle una buena limpieza al carburador de tal manera que nuestro vocho se mantenga siempre funcionando correctamente.

El carburador es una pieza crítica para formar la mezcla combustible y por ello debe encontrarse en un perfecto estado de mantenimiento. 

herramientas a utilizar

desarmadores planos diversos tamaños
llave de 17mm
llave de 14mm
juntas de carburador
pinza mecanica


se retiran los primeros 5 tornillo localizados en la tapa

se retira la junta la cual se desecha


el seguro del flotador debe mantener la forma en la que se encuentra, retiramos el flotador tomando en cuenta el perno que se puede perder con facilidad; con unas pinzas se retira el inyector
con una llave de 17mm se retira la primera válvula
aflojándola con la llave y retirándola solo con la mano.
la siguiente válvula se retira con unas pinzas; de la misma forma se retira la del extremo opuesto
con un desarmador mas delgado, se retira un taponsito que sirve para tapar unas espreas las cuales se retiran con extremo cuidado para no barrer la cuerda 
seguido de eso se retiran las espreas que van dentro del carburador
se retira la esprea que regula el paso de aire a la cámara de combustión tomando en cuenta que se remplazara un sellador de goma que lleva el mismo.
procedemos a retirar la esprea que regula el paso de la mezcla aire/gasolina, la cual también cuenta con una pequeña goma que se tendrá que remplazar..
desmontaremos el diafragma de inyección
de ultimo se retira el tubo emulsionador que permite el paso de aire cuando pisamos el acelerador a fondo
 en la tapa del carburador que desmontamos previamente retiraremos  la válvula que regula el paso de combustible a la "curva" del carburador utilizando una llave de 14mm
ya teniendo desmontadas las piezas se procede al lavado

colocando las piezas en una charola... donde agregaremos gasolina (en caso de estar muy sucio el carburador podremos utilizar thinner) con una brocha se lavan perfectamente dejando entrar un ligero chorro en los orificios de las espreas; escurriendo perfectamente dentro de la charola y colocando en otra parte para dejar secar; después con un compresor de aire se sopletea cada uno de los orificios para poder secar a la perfección el carburador

ahora para armar:

sustituir los empaques de las espreas(colocando una pequeña cantidad de grasa para evitar resequedad)
primero se colocan las espreas mas pequeñas.
apretando a tope y dando un pequeño apretón mas para cerciorarnos de que haya quedado en su lugar
se colocan las espreas de la cámara o curva del carburador
colocando en la esprea secundaria la válvula que le corresponde..
luego se colocan las espreas que son para carburar.
apretándolas a tope y regresando 3 vueltas.
después se coloca la válvula electromecánica con la misma llave de 17mm
después se coloca el inyector cerciorándonos que quede bien colocado para evitar que se vaya dentro del carburador
colocando el emulsionador que solamente se ajusta con un desarmador..
después de revisar las fugas que se pudieran presentar
se procede a colocar el flotador con su respectivo perno dentro de la guia
luego se coloca el seguro el cual presenta una curva que apunta hacia el extremo exterior del carburador.
seguido se coloca la junta nueva para la tapa del carburador procurando que mantenga la forma para que selle perfectamente colocando los 5 tornillos que la sostienen apretándolo a tope y dando un ligero apretón extra.
de ser necesario se remplaza el resorte por uno nuevo para mantener la tensión y que pueda regresar bien el chicote del acelerador

Copyright 2011 el taller del VW. Powered by Blogger
Blogger by Blogger Templates WP by Wpthemescreator